The Seljuk Han of Anatolia

PAZAR HAN 


Exterior overview

(all photos on this sidebar are from 1994)

Side exterior wall

Portal leading to covered section, now collapsed

Cells around courtyard

View from courtyard looking toward main entry

main portal and view onto portal of covered section

covered section portal

marble lintel decoration

Seljuk bridge over the Yeşilirmak River nearby

DISTRICT (IL)
60 TOKAT

LOCATION
This han is located on the Tokat-Turhal-Zile Road which crosses the picturesque Kaza Valley, about 1 km east (towards Tokat) from the village of Pazar. There is a Seljuk bridge over the Yeşilırmak River about .5 km to the northeast on the same road.
[map]


OTHER NAMES
Mahperi Hatun Han or the Hatun Han
Hatun Han means "The Lady’s han", in honor of its patron


DATE
1238-9 (dated by 2 inscriptions, one over the main portal and one over the entry to the covered hall.)

The partly-broken inscription over the main portal reads as follows: "Mahperi Hatun, sovereign of the wives to kings, commissioned the construction of this in in 1237 with the undertaking of Keyhüsrev bin-i Keykubat Mükerrem, the Great Sultan, the Eminent Sovereign, the shadow of Allah on earth, and the Savior of religion in this world."
 

The inscription of 4 lines over the hall door is complete and reads: “Has ordered the construction of this han, may Allah bless it, under the reign of the great Sultan and glorious Khan, Shadow of Allah in this world, Giyat Khosrow, son of the fortunate Kaykubad, the prince of the believers, the good queen Safat al-dunya wal-din, mother of the Sultan of Sultans, Mahperi Hatun, in the year 636."

 

The inscription over the main door is missing the top 2 lines, but as the bottom 2 lines read identically to the other inscription, we can assume that they contained the same information.

 

REIGN OF

Giyaseddin Keyhüsrev II

 

PATRON
Huand Hatun was one of the wives of Alaeddin Keykubad I and the mother of Giyaseddin Keyhüsrev II. She built a program of some 7 hans linking Sivas to Tokat, Amasya and Kayseri, in addition to her Huand Hatun Medrese Complex in Kayseri.  This han was built one year after her mosque in Kayseri.

BUILDING TYPE

Covered with open courtyard (COC)
Covered section smaller than courtyard
Covered section with middle aisle and side aisles
6 bays of vaults


DESCRIPTION
This han is one of the finest examples of the Seljuk hans.

The han faces southwest.
It was built in the same year as the Incir Han. It appears to be a simplified version of the sultan han plan. 

It is a robust and careful construction in layers of finely-cut limestone of excellent craftmanship.  The stones are 40-60 cm high.  Some of the stones bear stonemason marks.


Exterior and portal:
The monumental main portal, the only entrance to the han, is surmounted by ogival arch. There are two tower-like structures at each side corner of the facade.
A noteworthy architectural feature of this han is the presence of an external fountain set into a niche on the front wall to the left of the portal.
On either side of the entryway passage are two rooms and a sort of iwan, under which remains the traces of a staircase, which probably was used by sentries to reach the roof for their watch guard duties.

 

Courtyard:
The rectangular courtyard has two symmetrical porticos on each side, with 6 bays each covered by broken barrel vaults supported by square pillars, and joined to each other and to the wall by broken arches. Each of these pillars bears carved holes piercing the corner edges at approx 5" high to tether animals.  In view of the height, the animals tethered were probably camels.
The room to the northeast (to the left upon entering) was obviously the most important room in the han, due to the amount of decoration found there.  The entry threshold is comprised of 3 blocks of marble, raised above the ground level of the han, obviously meant to keep out animals (functioning as a sort of haha wall).  Inside the room, there is a delicate lintel strip of white marble spolia, with a carved chain of lotus blossoms.  Although no trace of a mihrab exists here, one would be tempted to consider this room to be either the mosque of the treasury.


Hall:
At the end of the courtyard in the axis of the main door is a door leading to the vast covered hall.  All the vaults of this hall have collapsed (now rebuilt during 2006 renovation). Traces of the springing of the vaults remain however, which allow a reconstitution of the plan, which consisted of a long main barrel vault, with 6 perpendicular barrel vaults on the sides.
There does not appear to have been a lantern dome as in the other larger hans of this type (Sultan Hans of Aksaray and KayseriKaratay).  There are small slit windows in the external walls in the axis of each of the lateral vaults.


DECORATION

The most important decoration of this han centers on the main entry door.  It contains lateral niches and a frame of arabesques.  The decoration on the portal is elegant and subdued, and has an almost delicate, feminine feel to it, and would appear to reflect the taste of the patron.  Instead of the traditional, heavier honeycomb entry vault, a simple broken arch surrounds the door.  The arch itself is surrounded by two different bands of decoration.  Each arc rests on a pillar with a heavy rope-like carving.  Each is surmounted by a carved capital.  The right capital contains vines and grape clusters (perhaps a reference to the rich vineyards of the region), the one to the left depicts vines only. 

Over the portal, the traditional stalactite-filled niche is replaced by a simple rounded vault, containing a trilobe-shaped area set in low relief, and which contains the inscription of 4 lines of which only the last 2 can be made out. (see above).

 

Other noteworthy decoration is found on the portal leading to the covered section, the magnificent white marble spolia block in the "treasury" room, and the external fountain niche.

DIMENSIONS
Total external area: 1500m2
Area of hall: 400m3
Area of courtyard: 1025m2

This is a large han of solid construction, but with a completely different look and feel to it than the Konya-Kayseri group of hans.  The facade has less the appearance of an austere fortress as do the others, but rather has a more restrained and gentler feel to it.

 

STATE OF CONSERVATION, CURRENT USAGE
Prior to 2006, the han had been abandoned for some time and had suffered, but the essential elements remained intact. The walls were in good shape but the roof of the indoor area had collapsed.  The Seljuk bridge nearby and the stunning natural beauty of the Kaza Valley provide a setting of great charm.

 

Alarmed by the reports of use of the han by squatters and miscreants, a renovation by the Foundations Directorate of the Turkish Ministry of Tourism was started in August, 2005.  Plans for reuse of the reconstituted han are unknown at the present time.  Also in August 2005, serious damage occurred to the Seljuk bridge when a truck passing over it careened and crashed through the side of the bridge.  In August of 2006, the project is nearing completion, with a planned finish date of November, 2006.  The photographs taken in 1994 (side bar), 2005 at the start of the project, and in 2006 at its near completion provide interesting comparisons for architectural preservationists. Unfortunately, the power of historical evocation once associated with a visit to this han has now been lost.
The restauration of the han was completed in 2007.  For the present time, the han now stands empty, locked up and cannot be visited.

 

BIBLIOGRAPHIC REFERENCES

Bektaş, p. 132-137
Erdmann, p. 135-139, no. 36
Ertuğ, p. 80
Gabriel, p. 113-116; fig. 73-76, pl. XXXI
Rice, p. 206


 

 

 

The photos below were taken during the beginning of the renovation project in August 2005.  Please click to enlarge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

restoration panel for 2005 work

overview seen from west

fountain on main facade

fountain kitabesi

side wall seen from east

overview facade seen from east

main portal overview

main portal

western side tower on facade

main portal side niche, left (east)

column capital left niche

column capital left detail of pinecone decoration

main portal side niche, right (west)

detail, portal right

column capital right, detail

 

niche right detail

niche right detail

portal niche right

 

portal niche right, detail of rope design

 

polygon carved panel, left

polygon carving detail

 

detail of arch keystones

inscription plaque (kitabesi) over main portal

kitabesi over main portal

entry as seen from courtyard

famous marble spolia lintel

staircase leading to roof

western courtyard portico

western portico

 

western portico

western portico

eastern portico

eastern portico

eastern portico

eastern portico

eastern portico arches

eastern portico arches

eastern portico

tethering hole in courtyard pillar

stonemason mark

portal of covered section and west portico

covered section portal

covered section portal

covered section portal

kitabesi of covered section portal

view of covered section, roof now collapsed

construction wagon with typical local painted decoration

overview of bridge

damage from accident in August 2005

view of bridge with damaged side wall

 

The Kaza Valley

 

 

The following photographs were taken in August 2006 at the end of the renovation project for the han

repaired bridge after 2005 truck crash

 

 

 

©2001-2006, Katharine Branning; All Rights Reserved.  No part of this site may be reproduced in any form without written consent from the author.