The Seljuk Han of Anatolia
SULTAN HAN AKSARAY
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Main portal with stalactite vault |
lateral arcade of main portal |
overview of couryard, west arcades and kiosk mosque |
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west arcades and mosque, looking north |
east side courtyard cells |
courtyard view of mosque and covered section portal |
stairs to roof on northeastern corner of courtyard
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DISTRICT
(IL)
68 AKSARAY
LOCATION
This han is located in the
town called Sultanhan, on the Konya-Aksaray Road, 40 km from Aksaray, or 94 km
from Konya. The town of Sultanhan is approximately 3 km south off the main
highway.
DATE
1229
(dated by inscription)
There are two inscriptions, one over the hall door and one over the courtyard door. The one over the hall door states that it was built by the Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Keykubad I in 1229. These inscriptions are in a band, not in a framed inscription plaque which is usually the case.
On the two sides of the arch crowning the portal niche one can read the name of the master-architect inscribed inside two hexagonal medallions: "Amele Muhammed bin Hav (la) n (el-Dimiski)". The word Dimiski indicates the origin of the architect, who came from Damascus.
After being badly damaged by fire in 1278, the han was renovated by the local governor Seraceddin Ahmed Kerimeddin bin El Hasan, as indicated in the inscription over the courtyard. After this extension, it became the largest caravansarai in Anatolia.
REIGN
OF
Alaeddin Keykubad I; with renovation carried out in 1278 during the reign of Giyaseddin Keyhüsrev III.
PATRON
The original patron was
Alaeddin Keykubad I; and the restoration patron was Seraceddin Kerimeddin,
a dignitary at Aksaray under Giyaseddin Keyhüsrev III.
BUILDING
TYPE
Covered section with open
courtyard (COC)
Covered section is smaller than the courtyard
Covered
section with a central aisle and 2 aisles on each side
9 cross
vaults
DESCRIPTION
This is the largest,
but not the oldest, of the Sultan hans, and is perhaps the most beautiful and
impressive of all. It holds an important place in the history of Seljuk
architecture. If a visitor to Turkey can see only one han, this would be
the one. Few more powerful or finely-built examples of Anatolian Seljuk
architecture exist.
The most remarkable features of this structure are the arcaded courtyard, the twin majestic portals of the entry vestibule and the covered section, the vaulting system supported by piers, and the free-standing kiosk mosque rising on four piers in the middle of the courtyard. The stone decoration of the mosque and the portals is also noteworthy for its elegance and artistic mastery.
Plan:
The han lies parallel to the road, and faces southwest towards Aksaray.
This Sultan Han is in the group of "classical plan" hans, that is in two parts: a huge enclosed hall on the south and an open courtyard in front of it. With this han begins the era of the "big" hans: the large-scale construction projects of the hans of Ağzikara, Zazadin, Sultan Han Kayseri, Incir, Susuz, Obruk and Karatay.
Exterior:
The richly carved portal of the han, which projects out from the walls, together with the 6 hexagonal corner towers and the 18 smaller side towers give it the appearance of a fortified castle. There is a monumental view over the surrounding plains from the roof. The walls are built of finely-dressed ashlar stone, with the roof also of stone.
Portal:
Entrance to the han is through an imposing portal and a rectangular vestibule covered with a star-shaped vault. The portal is 13 m high, projects out about 1.5m and is almost 50m wide. The portal is balanced on each side by a grouping of three columns on the front wall.
The portal has carved side panels of interlaced polygons dotted with flowers, a curious combination of a strong geometrical element with a delicate natural motive. A graceful arch with an intersecting ribbon decoration surrounds and crowns the stalactite vault. There are two columns on each side with a strong zigzag pattern, topped with palmette capitals. The cursive inscription band runs at the base of the stalactite vault above a band of bi-colored stones (pale gray and white), like those seen at the Alaeddin Mosque and Karatay Medrese in Konya.
The bicolored stonework and the patterns used here are typical of the Syrian-Zengid style that would have been familiar to the Damascene architect.
Entrance vestibule cells:
The vaulted rooms on the two sides of the entrance vestibule were used as office rooms and for administrative operations. There was also a 3-room bath group located at the left corner of the entry.
Courtyard:
Along the right-hand (west) side of the courtyard is a decorated colonnade for storage of goods and stabling of animals. The high and open vaults facilitated the loading and unloading of goods.
This side of the courtyard also houses latrines grouped together in the large corner space at the northwest corner. There is a deep stone channel encircling the space on the east, north and west sides. Apparently there were several individual latrines along the channel, divided by wooden partitions.
The left-hand (eastern) side of the courtyard comprises a series of 9 rooms, each approximately 12 x 6 feet. There are also two series of ovens and changing rooms to serve the adjoining men's and women's baths. The rooms on this side were used for the various hospitality aspects and daily activities of the han: refectory and kitchen, dining room with carved stone console benches, baths for men and women, as well as spaces for relaxation and sleeping. Most of these rooms have slit windows to the east. Barrel vaults cover all these rectangular units.
Kiosk mosque:
The mosque of the han is a free-standing structure in the middle of the courtyard, similar to the ones seen at the Kayseri Sultan, Ağzikara and Sahipata Hans. It is supported by four big arches and contains a mihrab on the inside. The mosque is approached by a set of steps to the south side.
The power and elegance of the decoration of this kiosque mosque rivals that of the portal, and is worthy of the sultan who probably worshipped here. The mosque was raised to separate it from the hubbub of animals and goods below, to create a clean place for worship.
Covered section:
The huge hall contained the sleeping and living quarters for the winter months. The interior is divided into 9 aisles through arcades running east to west and covered with barrel vaults. There are two rows of confronting arches that flank the central aisle perpendicular to the portal. This central aisle, which is wider than the others, has the character of a nave. The central vault of the east-west aisles intersects it to create a section at the center for orientation. A dome with a conical cap on the outside covers the square unit at the center. This dome is of technical interest, for it is made of pieces of stone laid helically like a snail's shell, achieved without a mold. There is a handsome carved rope motive at the juncture of the dome with the squinches.
DECORATION
Decorative elements comprise arabesques, blossoms, crescents, braids, trelliswork, Syrian knots, and patterned brickwork in the arches.
DIMENSIONS
Total external area:
4,500m2 (excluding towers and portals)
Area of hall: 1,430 m2
Area of
courtyard: 2,250 m2
STATE OF CONSERVATION, CURRENT
USAGE
One of the finest extant examples. It is in excellent
condition and is run as a museum by the Turkish government. Gertrude Bell
visited the han in July, 1907, and her photographs show the han in a
well-preserved state prior to the renovation.
BIBLIOGRAPHIC REFERENCES
Acun, p. 140-159 (includes extensive bibliography in Turkish); 453; 524
Bayrak, p. 571
Bektaş,
p. 140-45
The Gertrude Bell Archives. Internet web document.
www.gerty.ncl.ac.uk/, folder I, photos
I195-210
Erdmann, p. 83-90, no. 25
Ertuğ, p. 78
Gülyaz, Murat Ertuğrul.
"The Kervansarays of Cappadocia", Skylife Magazine, December, 1999
Hillenbrand, fig. 6.39, p. 552
Karpuz, Kuş, Dıvarcı and Şimşek (2008), vol. 1, p. 70-74.
Kuban (2002), p. 242-243
Unsal, p. 49
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main portal |
stalactite arch of main portal |
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inscription detail, side arcades of main portal |
side arcade of main portal |
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detail of palmette capitals on entry portal columns |
detail, bicolored architrave and inscription |
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crossvault in entry vestibule |
detail of interlace and flower panel on entry poral |
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detail of polygon interlace panel on entry portal |
courtyard kiosque mosque, stairs on south side |
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kiosque mosque, view from entry |
kiosque mosque, detail of decorative stonework |
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western arcades |
western arcades |
western arcades, southern end |
detail, decorative arch borders |
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eastern cells, looking south |
wall consoles in refectory |
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covered section main aisle |
covered section view to side aisles |
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covered section, view of central dome |
covered section, exterior view of cupola and drum |
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external view, eastern side |
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Hittite Monument with hieroglyphics found at the Sultan Han in 1928 Ankara, Museum of Anatolian Civilizations
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Turkish stamp set from 1982 depicting the Sultanhan Aksaray
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The main portal photographed by Gertrude Bell in July, 1907 |
The inner hall photographed by Gertrude Bell in July, 1907
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upper section of stalactite arch of entry portal |
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western side view |
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The Han in 2007 |
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The han as viewed by Gertrude Bell in July, 1907, one hundred years before the photo above |
for a series of photos taken of the han in 1963 by John Ingham, showing the condition of the han prior to its restoration, click below:
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©2001-2011, Katharine Branning; All Rights Reserved. No part of this site may be reproduced in any form without written consent from the author.