The Seljuk Han of Anatolia
KANDEMIR HAN
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![]() Separate "mosque" building to the southwest |
![]() rear view of han (photo courtesy of Serdar Ceylan)
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Photograph (G019) of the han taken by Gertrude Bell in May, 1907 |
DISTRICT (IL)
42 KONYA
LOCATION
The han is situated 44 km (30 miles) from Konya along the Konya-Beyşehir Road. It
is one of the series of 4 hans originally along this stretch of road: Altinapa (now submerged by the
waters behind the Altinapa Dam), Kizilören,
Kandemir/Kuruçeşme, and Yunus (no longer standing). It is 10 miles west of the Kizilören
Han, and lies parallel to the road, with the door facing Beyşehir (for
caravans en route east to Konya).
OTHER NAMES
Kizilviran, Emir Kandemir, or Yazı Han.
The han is also referred to in several sources as the Kuruceşme han, meaning
the "Han of the Dry Fountain", a possible reference to a now dried-up water
source. A photo taken in 1907 by Gertrude Bell shows the water well in front of
the han. It is generally known by the locals as the Emir Kandemir Han. There is a
certain confusion as to the name of this han in the academic literature, as it
is often confused with the Kizilören han further east.
DATE
1205-6
(dated by inscription)
The inscription plaque over the covered section door reads: "Built in the reign of Keykhosrow ibn Kilic Arslan,
master of the Arabs and Persians, by his servant Emir in the year 602". This makes
this han the earliest dated Seljuk han. This inscription plaque, which was
photographed in 1941 and translated by I. Hakki Konyali, is now unfortunately
lost.
REIGN OF
Giyaseddin Keyhüsrev I
PATRON
An emir of Keyhüsrev, son of Kiliç Arslan, probably the Emir Qayamokh Bey, known
as Kutluğ ibn Mehmed.
BUILDING TYPE
Covered with open courtyard (COC)
Covered section smaller than the courtyard
Covered section with 1 central aisle and 1 aisle on each side running perpendicular to the back wall
6 bays of vaults in the central aisle; 3 in the side aisles
The courtyard has 4 open cells on each side.
DESCRIPTION
The han "complex" comprises the han, an outer gatehouse
structure and an adjacent building, probably an additional han or service
building. It is a relatively
large han.
This han is the first example of the most frequent type of plan, that of a hall with a wider courtyard.
This han and the han of Altinapa, both along the Konya-Beyşehir road, are the earliest
examples of this type of the courtyard and covered section plan. This han is also regarded as one of the
first experiments in placing of the mosque room
above the entrance porch, reached by steps leading upwards.
The facade of the han is flanked by octagonal towers at each corner. The han portal is framed by a distinctive white stone arch.
Upon entering the main portal (3.24m wide), there is a large 2-story atrium-like structure. It contains a deep cell on each side and probably served as a guard house. The cell to the south on the ground floor is closed off from the exterior and is reached by the courtyard, and probably served as the treasury. There were 3 rooms in total on the upper floor over the entry, with the one to the north serving as a mosque. It has an elaborate stone mihrab with a conque shell cupola and side panels of carved stones in a palmette decoration. The upper floor rooms are reached by a pair of stairs located on the courtyard side.
The courtyard is 2.6m wider than the covered section and has 4 open arcades resembling iwans on each side, and which are 6.3m deep.
The portal leading to the covered section is 2.5 meters wide and has a niche 1.2m deep. The covered section has 3 aisles, with the central aisle twice as wide as the side aisles. The covered section is flanked by two rectangular cells on the western side, which are accessible through the courtyard arcades. They probably served as storage areas and were thought to be added at a later date.
There is a separate adjacent building 400 m to the south-east. It measures 15 X 21m
and has 2 vaults in its roof. It has two aisles and two floors. This
building is often considered as a second han, built at approximately the same
time. As it contains a mihrab, it probably served
as a mosque at a later point in time. Erdmann believes the mihrab was
added at a later date to turn the building into a mosque for locals. Due to the fact that there was a mosque on the second floor
of the main han, Bektaş believes that it was not a mosque originally, but rather an
additional storage area or a guard house. Professor Aysil Tukel Yavuz believes that the building was a
relay stage for the postal system.
There is a Seljuk Bridge over the Sari Su about 6 km further west.
There does not appear to be an immediate water source nearby.
It is curious that there were so many hans along this relatively short
stretch of road, each at a short distance from the other. This bears witness
to the heavy commercial use of this road, leading to the capital city of Konya.
DECORATION
There is very little decoration in this han, except for the carved mihrab on the second floor. The separate mosque building portal has a strong and attractive triple row of arches.
DIMENSIONS
Total area: 1,200m2
Area of hall: 430 m2
Area of courtyard: 655 m2
STATE OF CONSERVATION, CURRENT USAGE
This han has stood in lonely isolation for many years, and was used
by locals as holding pens for sheep and goats. However, its days of obscurity
are now over. In June, 2008, The Turkish Vakif Directorate
announced that the han would undergo a $1.6 million restoration project.
Work began in April, 2008 and contined for 1 year. As of June, 2009, a
restaurant serving the famous Konya
tandir and tepsi kebabs has opened in the han.
BIBLIOGRAPHIC REFERENCES
Acun, p. 88-103 (includes extensive bibliography in Turkish); 511
Altun, p. 200
Bektaş, p. 79-81
The Gertrude Bell Archives. Internet web document.
www.gerty.ncl.ac.uk/, folder G, photos
G019-020. (refers to it as the Kizilviran Han)
Erdmann, p. 45-49, no. 9 (Note: Erdmann calls this han the Önu Han)
Karpuz, Kuş, Dıvarcı and Şimşek (2008), vol. 2, p. 131-33
Kuban (2002), p. 239 (refers to it as the Kizilören Han)
Kuş Selçuklu, p. 33 (han) 34-35
(mosque)
Rice, p. 205
Unsal, p. 48
Yavuz, p. 89 and footnote 43.
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The plan of the han, the second story atrium group of 3 rooms, and the adjacent mosque building
photos showing the han pre-and post renovation
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front view (pre-2008 restoration)
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Interior courtyard cells and entrance portal to covered section, now collapsed
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Interior courtyard cells, looking from the courtyard towards main entrance. The traces of the stairs leading to the second floor can be seen on the right
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Click below for more photos taken in July, 2008 during the recent restoration project and August 2009 after completion of the project
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