The Seljuk Han of Anatolia

ESHAB-I KEHF HAN


 

ribat portal

DISTRICT
46 KAHRAMANMARAŞ
 

LOCATION
The Esab-i Kehf Han is located 7 km north of the city of Afşin, 16 km past Elbistan on the Göksun road. It is situated directly in front of the Eshab-i Kehf cave. There is no caravan road passing in front of the han, so it is believed that it was built for the pilgrims coming to the cave, rather than for commercial purposes. The han is a part of a complex which includes a fort (ribat) and a mosque.
 

NAMES
There is no inscription plaque furnishing the name of the han, so it is generally known as the Esab-i Keyf Han after the site. It is referred to in Ottoman period sources as the Afşin Han.


DATE
First quarter of the 13th century
 

REIGN OF

Alaeddin Keykubad I
 

INSCRIPTION

The inscription plaque to the han has been lost.

 

PATRON
Although the inscription plaque of the han is lost, there is an inscription plaque over the door of the mosque, originally belonging to the ribat, which includes 3 lines of  Seljuk naskh calligraphy. It reads as follows: "This ribat was built in the time of the glorious sultan, exalter of the world and the Faith, the great conqueror, the helper of the commander of the believers, the son of Keyhusrev, Sultan Keykubad, by Emir Nusretuddin Hasan, son of Ibrahim - May Allah bless him and have mercy upon him - in the year 630." By extension, it is believed that the patron of the han was Nasr ad-Din Hasan ibn Ibrahim as well. A former slave, he became governor of Maraş under Alaeddin Keykubad from 1211 until at least 1232.
 

BUILDING TYPE

Concentric
 

DESCRIPTION
The setting: This han is located in a highly scenic and remote area, atop a small mountain, offering a majestic view of the countryside below, ringed on four sides by mountains. The site of Eshab-i Kehf cave is associated with the Christian story of the Seven Sleepers of the Cave which also appears in the Qur'an, Sura 18, The Cave Sura (al-Kahf). This cave has been a sacred Christian pilgrimage site since ancient times, and the Christians built several religious structures around the cave. As there is no caravan road passing in front of the han, it is believed that it was built for the pilgrims coming to the cave, rather than for commercial purposes.

 

The complex: This han is part of a complex: in addition to the han, there is a mosque (once a Byzantine church) and a ribat (fort). All form a building complex called the Eshab'ül Kehf Külliyesi. The church was a pilgrimage site in Christian times, and the whole complex has continued as such in Islamic times.

 

The ribat:

The Esab-i Kehf ribat, with its finely-decorated portal, is the highlight of this complex. Sitting high on the hill, the ribat dominates the entire complex. It is one of the most outstanding examples of Seljuk military architecture. Ribats were used for defense purposes, military garrisons and as dervish lodges by various Sufi religious orders. The han is situated below it, and is a more modestly-decorated structure. The facades of the two structures face each other. The ribat served first as a soup kitchen (imaret) and later as a dervish lodge. The ribat was commissioned by Maraş Emir Nusretüddin Hasan Bey, during the reigns of Izzeddin Keykavus I and Alaeddin Keykubad, between 1215 and 1234.

 

A large tandir (underground pit oven generally used for baking flatbread) is located above the ribat, on a high hill. This oven is located next to a large flat rock used for rolling the bread dough. Similar tandirs have have been discovered in other hans.

 

The mosque:

Next to the ribat is the mosque, built on the site of the former pilgrimage church named the John Manuk Church, as is indicated on the map of Kiepert. Extensive reuse spolia material and marble column capitals from the former church remain inside the mosque. Many of these are notable examples of marble stonecutting. It is believed that the mosque was built during the time of the Dulkadiroğullari Beylik (14th century) or during the Ottoman period

 

The han:

The han is oriented north-south and the entrance faces south. The han has a rectangular plan, and comprises a long courtyard surrounded by rooms of different sizes. In addition, the concentric plan comprises a stable area that runs along the western long side of the courtyard. The walls of the han were built with smooth-face stone, although old photographs reveal that pitch-faced stone was used for the outer walls and smooth-faced on the interior sides, piers and surfaces. Drainage pipes were placed on the east walls.

 
The courtyard contains open and closed rooms on 3 sides (8m wide and 21 m deep). There are three open iwans on the east and west sides, with closed rooms between them. The south side has a larger iwan flanked by two closed rooms. The room located to the left of the entrance is wider than the other rooms and probably served as the quarters of the innkeeper. The room to the west of the entry leads to the long covered hall on the west of the structure.

 

This large, L-shaped covered hall (5.5 m wide and 31 long) runs the entire length of the western part of the han. There are no window slits in the walls. This area was used as the stables. Access to the stables is just inside the entrance to the han, to the right. These stables are isolated from the other sections. A window in the last small room on the west side of the courtyard gives a view onto the stable area for supervising the animals.

 

The plan of the Eshab-i Kehf Han differs in certain features from the traditional Seljuk Han plan. It consists of open and closed rooms arranged around a long, narrow courtyard. Directly opposite the entrance is a large iwan with vaulted rooms on each side. The stable section to the west is also unusual. This concentric plan is similar to the plans of the Alara and Tercan hans. This han plan is more similar to the plan of a medrese than a han with the traditional covered section and open courtyard plan.


No bath has been noted. The water source was from the spring located below the ribat.
Inside of the ribat there is an underground spring which links to the Esab-i Kehf underground springs and caves, 3 miles to the west.

 

The outer walls of the east side were reinforced by four square support towers. It was not necessary to add support towers to the west wall, as it was built flush to the mountainside.

 

DECORATION
The only decoration in the han appears on the borders of the crown door. The arch of the portal door of the ribat is filled with a highly-decorated program of muqarnas (stalactites) and rosettes. The portal of the han is simple, and the inscription plaque has been lost.

DIMENSIONS
850m2 (external area)


STATE OF CONSERVATION, CURRENT USAGE
The entire complex is in excellent condition, and was completely restored in 2008. Many of the original architectural elements were lost during the repair, but the plan and construction elements have remained intact. The han may be visited (ask guardian in house above to open). The damaged crown door was restored during repairs made to the han. The site is highly-frequented on Fridays for prayer and on the weekends for picnics, and the drinking water of the spring below the ribat is highly-prized. The complex, with its history, prominence of site, serene setting, and interfaith spirit retains the original spiritual atmosphere of the Christian pilgrimage site. Today, visitors tie votive wish ribbons to the trees and bushes on the hill above the complex.


BIBLIOGRAPHIC REFERENCES

Acun, pp. 436-447 (includes extensive bibliography in Turkish); 497.

Altun, Ara. An Outline of Turkish Architecture in the Middle Ages, 1990, p. 199.

Aslanapa, Oktay. "Anadolu'da Ilk Türk Mimarisi", p. 118, Ankara: Atatürk Kültür, Dil ve Tarih Yüksek Kurumu, 1991.
Babinger, 1957.

Bektaş, Cengiz. Selçuklu kervansarayları, korunmaları ve kullanılmaları uzerine bir öneri = A proposal regarding the Seljuk caravanserais, their protection and use, 1999, pp. 128-129.
Eravşar, Osman. Yollarin Taniklari (Witnesses of the Way), 2017, pp. 519-522.

Erdmann, Kurt. Das Anatolische Karavansaray des 13. Jahrhunderts, 1961, pp. 187-188, no. 59.
Guide bleu, p. 662.
Karpuz, Kuş, Dıvarcı and Şiek (2008), vol. 1, pp. 398-399.

Kiepert, R. Karte von Kleinasien, in 24 Blatt bearbeitet, 1902-1916..

Rice Tamara Talbot. The Seljuks in Asia Minor, 1961,  p. 206.

Yinanç, Refet. “Eshab-ı Kehf Vakıfları”, Vakıflar Dergisi, XX (1988),  p.311-320.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

commemorative stamp, 2001 issue

 

 

 

For further views, click on thumbnails below:

entry to kulliye complex

elaborate stalactite portal of the ribat

overview of ribat

detail of portal carving

side niche of ribat portal

entry hall to ribat

spolia capital head in mosque courtyard

niche in mosque (former altar area of church?)

underground spring in mosque

mosque

spolia capital in mosque

spolia capital in mosque

spolia capital in mosque

spolia capital in mosque

mosque interior showing spolia columns and capitals

patio area outside of mosque

tandir (cooking oven) on hill above ribat

tandir stone used for making bread

ribat facade

ribat portal

inscription plaque over ribat portal

detail of exquisite carving of ribat portal

detail of carving on ribat portal

overview of han

rear view of han

interior view of courtyard of han

covered side hall to west of han

cross-vaulting in courtyard room

view of courtyard room

courtyard room

courtyard room

courtyard room, west

courtyard rooms, east

courtyard room

overview of courtyard, east

overview of courtyard, looking south

overview of han courtyard, looking west

view of courtyard, west

countryside near Afşin

countryside near Afşin

view from ribat

view from ribat

 

 

 

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