The Seljuk Han of Anatolia

Life in the Seljuk Han

“Think, in this batter’d Caravanserai

Whose Portals are alternate Night and Day,

How Sultan after Sultan with his Pomp

Abode his Hour or two, and went his way.”

                                   quatrain XVI, The Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam, Edward FitzGerald translation, 1859 edition

 

Like an oasis in the wilderness, the fortress-like solidity of Anatolian hans beckoned caravans from a great distance with their promise of security and comfort. One can imagine the joy felt by the travelers upon seeing the massive portal loom ahead across the plain after a strenuous day of travel in the heat and dust of the Anatolian plain.

The hans were run like mini-cities, and tried to anticipate every service a traveler could need. It was here that the merchants organized their goods, repaired their vehicles, tended their animals, ate and bathed. It was here too that commerce was carried out, as merchants bought and sold among themselves along the way.  If we try to imaging a modern day comparison, the hans were at the same time a roadside truckstop, motel, and trucking depot.

Researchers are still undecided as to exactly how the internal space of a han was organized to accommodate humans and animals.  Some believe they were kept separately, with the animals in the courtyard and the travelers in the side cells or in the covered hall.  Others believe it was a free-for-all, with the merchants sleeping with their animals wherever they could find a space.  The covered hall was probably extensively used in the cold winter months for sheltering both animals, goods, and travelers, and the open court was used in the summer.

ANIMALS
The number of animals in the hans was probably double the amount of humans, and represented a considerable concern for the organization of the life inside the han. The beast of burden of choice was the camel, as they could carry the heaviest loads and were well-suited to long journeys across dry plains. The camels used were a breed created by the crossing of the Bactrian camel (two-humped) and the dromedary camel (one hump). The ensuing one-humped camel was sturdy, suited to the climate and could travel far distances, but was nervous, difficult to handle and could not carry loads of more that 200-300 pounds (a Bactrian can carry some 500 pounds). Camels usually traveled in groups of seven (called a "katar") and were led by a donkey or a mule. Other animals used for transport and travel were horses and mules. It can also be assumed that a number of dogs accompanied the caravans: one need only to witness the vigilance of the Turkish breed of the Kangal shepherd dog to appreciate the security they would have provided a traveling caravan.

Some researchers have suggested that the animals were tethered outside the han and tended to by grooms and guards.  In view of modern sanitary principles, this hypothesis is tempting to accept, as the noise, smell and waste of animals would have been unbearable at such close quarters.  However, the animals represented a serious investment and were capital to the success of a merchant, so it is very doubtful that he would have let them out of his sight and left in a potentially dangerous situation, prey to midnight rustlers.

A wide range of staff tended to the needs of the animals, and included veterinarians, grooms, saddle makers, blacksmiths, stable hands, and hands for mucking the courtyard.

Extensive spaces were needed to stable the animals, which probably numbered in several hundred per night in the larger hans. The considerable size of the courtyard of hans such as Karatay and Incir are well-suited to handle large numbers of animals. As mentioned above, one can imagine the strong odor and considerable din that such a large group of animals would have made inside the han.

PEOPLE
Travelers
It is estimated that the larger hans could house up to 200 travelers, but this number was probably more modest in the majority of the hans. The hans allowed the travelers to dispense with carrying the extra burden of tents, camping equipment, and food supplies along the way, leaving them more space for their commercial goods. The travelers were mostly men, and were of all nationalities: Armenians, Greeks, Turks, Caucasians, Europeans (Venetians, Florentines, Spaniards, Frenchmen, Maltese), Syrians, Egyptians, Persians and Jews.

Cooking was probably carried out in the courtyard, and meals were taken in a communal "around the campfire" style.  Several hans have remains of tandir clay ovens in the raised platform sections.  These ovens were used essentially for cooking and baking.  Bread dough is pressed against the preheated surface, and pots are placed at its mouth for cooking

Despite the efforts made to provide every sort of service to the travelers, the comfort provided was rudimentary, and the proximity of humans and animals must have been trying.  The latrines must have been located near the stable area, and had wooden or curtain partitions.

Villagers
The inhabitants of the surrounding villages and the local peasants would have been involved as well in the life of the han, supplying food, animals for slaughter and other services. There were probably few women in the hans, save for women who could have come to work in the han or to entertain the travelers as dancers, musicians....or otherwise.

Personnel
The administrative staff of the hans consisted of an administrator and a head "innkeeper" (hanci in Turkish), who acted much like a concierge in a modern hotel, directing new arrivals to the various areas and services of the hans. Other personnel included housekeepers and cleaners, cooks, a physician, an imam (religious official), a wainwright, money changer, tailor, cobbler, laundry workers, superintendent of provisions, guards and police, messengers, and a score of gofers, probably small boys, who carried out a myriad of errands and chores.  Like in a modern hotel, there must have been a large service staff: one can imagine 20 people at least per han

SECURITY
Considerable importance was given to security issues inside and outside the han. The architecture of the han itself was the primary security measure. With their fortified walls, single opening and iron doors, the hans were impenetrable to attack. Admission through the main door was administered by the head doorkeeper ("kapici" in Turkish) who was seconded by several guards posted in the entry vestibule. Inside the han there were security guards to ensure that there was no theft of goods or property during the night. The doors of the han were locked at night and watchmen took their posts on the flat roofs to supervise the surrounding area.  There was probably an internal security guard system as well, for in order for this entire system to work, merchants had to feel entirely secure from robbery even when inside the han.

ACTIVITIES IN THE HAN
It is interesting to imagine life in the han during a normal day. Caravans would arrive, enter the han, and would be taken in charge by the head attendant.  Bellowing out his orders, the attendant would direct the porters to unload the bundles stacked high upon the backs of the animals.  Grooms would then lead away the animals, group them according to merchant, and water and feed them. The merchants would meet with the other travelers in the han, and among themselves, would discuss their goods, carry on commerce, buy and sell, spreading out their goods and negotiating prices in a floating bazaar, all in a myriad of languages. Commercial alliances and new friendships were formed, with merchants often making plans to form groups to travel together.

At the end of the day, the travelers were refreshed after bathing and dining.  All activity would cease for the moment of the evening prayer. Afterwards, the han would truly come to life.  The courtyards and halls no doubt became the setting for a beehive buzz of activity. Late into the night, there would have been a virtual Tower of Babel cacophony: story telling, sharing of news, animated conversations, debates, reciting of love poetry by "aşik" dervish troubadours, laughter and arguing.  Entertainment probably included games, gambling and performances by musicians, acrobats and bear trainers….. Indeed, these hans also served another important, non-commercial feature: they helped to spread news and information throughout the empire. People from all areas and countries came together and related events, shared situations they had experienced, and told of news from their home regions. This news was then passed on to the local villages and towns.  In this sense, the hans served as an information hub, local news center and a sort of oral public library.

At dawn, the han would wake to the morning call for prayer. Then would ensue a scurry of activity as the caravans prepared to depart. Once the caravans ready and assembled, the doors would open, and the merchants would set out together on the road once more. Those who chose to stay would rest and reorganize their goods. And the han would once again busy itself with the cycle of daily activities needed to prepare for the next night’s arrivals.

 

 

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